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[Apr. 30th, 2008|07:34 pm] |
Managed to get into the water tonight, it had been too long. The waves were 3-5', and were breaking pretty close to shore.
During my attempts to paddle out, I saw some good surfers, one guy would even spin his board around and ride it backwards. I also caught some of the whitewater from the bigger stuff breaking farther out.
After fighting and getting rolled more times than I care to admit, even getting swept south almost to the rocks at Salt Creek, I managed to get past the break. Once out there, it was cloudy, a bit breezy, but beautiful. After a few failed attempts to pick up some moderate waves, and almost getting rolled by an easy 7' monster, I figured that getting in before getting hurt was probably the best idea. I decided to race the waves into shore, catching whitewater on my way in. I timed it reasonably well, didn't get rolled, and bodysurfed my board in.
I can't wait to move to the beach in the next month or two. Being able to get into the water at dawn on a whim is going to be awesome. |
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[Apr. 12th, 2008|06:36 pm] |
I got into the water again today. Took the roommate down to sit on the beach; he had never been to Salt Creek before. One of his friends was supposed to meet us there, but she wasn't feeling good. The waves weren't terrible, but there were so many people, and the really good break on the south end was cordoned off for a surfing competition.
There were a lot of young people out in the water. The public section was dominated by 10-16 year olds. There were actually a pair of maybe 13/14 year old girls in the public section that were awesome. I tried to let them take as many waves as they wanted, because I can't make as much out of the waves as they can. As we were leaving, one of them swapped her shortie (maybe 5 1/2 feet long, if that) for a classy looking longboard at least 7 1/2 feet. I'm sure she had a lot of fun with that.
After catching a couple (and not catching a bunch), I went into the shallows to work the whitewater. Easy to catch, easy to ride, a wave every couple minutes. Now all I need to do is to get good at catching the big waves. :) |
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[Apr. 11th, 2008|08:54 pm] |
Managed to get down to Salt Creek Beach a couple hours before the sun went down and did a bit of surfing. Surfline said 1-3 feet, and most of it was, but there were quite a few 5' sets. I left most of them to the more experienced people there, but picked one up on my way in for the evening (the sun was going down and the wind was getting cold).
Salt Creek is the best spot I've found so far. Even when it's small, it's a lot of fun.
I didn't realize how cold it was until I got home and the cold tap water felt warm. Maybe 2 hours in the water is a bit much right now.
Also, watching the sun go down while on the water is almost as awesome as watching it come up. |
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