Managed to get into the water tonight, it had been too long. The waves were 3-5', and were breaking pretty close to shore.

During my attempts to paddle out, I saw some good surfers, one guy would even spin his board around and ride it backwards. I also caught some of the whitewater from the bigger stuff breaking farther out.

After fighting and getting rolled more times than I care to admit, even getting swept south almost to the rocks at Salt Creek, I managed to get past the break. Once out there, it was cloudy, a bit breezy, but beautiful. After a few failed attempts to pick up some moderate waves, and almost getting rolled by an easy 7' monster, I figured that getting in before getting hurt was probably the best idea. I decided to race the waves into shore, catching whitewater on my way in. I timed it reasonably well, didn't get rolled, and bodysurfed my board in.

I can't wait to move to the beach in the next month or two. Being able to get into the water at dawn on a whim is going to be awesome.